Feb 8, 2007 by jennifer
This was written by my sister, Elizabeth about a recent trip to Niagra Wine Country…
When you go from pothole to Pino Noir in under 2 hours, you know you have a story to tell.
Last weekend, GTR picked me up and I was (of course) running late because of a stressful workweek. He waited for me without too much grumbling and we got on the road by 2:30. The drive was good and we managed to get to the hotel just after 4. We stayed at the White Oaks Resort in Niagara-On-The-Lake. The room was gorgeous – and huge – with a GIANT jacuzzi bath and a fire place: all the comforts we could never afford at home. We uncorked a bottle of 2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape that we brought with us (amazing, mellow, sweet and with no tannins – drink it if you can find it!) and enjoyed it while reading the hotel menus. With plans to go out for dinner slowly escaping us (as the bottle of wine neared empty) we made our way to the hotel bar for a bite.
I love eating while I watch people exercise — they have a sports bar overlooking the indoor tennis courts. The food was standard pub fare – definitely good, but nothing I’d write home about – it did the job. The wine (Jackson Triggs Proprietors’ Reserve 2004 Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon) was better than expected. As someone who prefers Old-World wines, I wasn’t expecting much; it was however, a nice, mellow, full flavored wine. With a sip or two left in our glasses, we decided to peruse the dessert menu and found Chocolate Fondue for Two. All I can say is: “yum”. There is nothing wrong with warm chocolate, fresh berries and homemade marshmallows. Double Yum.
Saturday we woke up refreshed (after a Venti coffee and a bubble bath of course!) and looking forward to the Icewine Festival (the reason we were there). We drove into town and found a local restaurant for lunch. Quick, hospitable service and a turkey and bacon sandwich each and we were off – in search of the Icewine we were hearing so much about. We wandered down the main strip to the tent where the event was being held. Jazz music filled the air while people meandered in and out of the tent housing the Ice Bar. A number of wineries were there, pouring samples and talking about their craft. At the end of 4 samples, we looked at each other and said “Icewine is just not for us.” (We both had upset tummies from the sugar!) “Let’s go to the wineries for the real stuff!”
First stop: Lailey. A tiny tasting room, an uninspiring, uninterested rep and 4 tastings later, we left – disappointed. We found their wines young, aggressive and lacking in flavor or body. Stratus was next. Stratus has a large, beautiful showroom and offered us a “flight” – 3 wine tastings and a sample of Icewine with a cheese plate to finish. We chose a white and two reds. (Do I remember what they were?? Nope.) The white was drinkable, but uninspiring. The reds were – like Lailey – young and aggressive, but did feel a little better on the palette. The Icewine was paired with a creamy blue cheese, poached pear and a slice of orange. They matched well, and the food definitely helped the dinkability of the wine – but not enough for us to really like it. We left, once again disappointed.
We got back in the car and GTR said – “we’ve got all the time in the world! Let’s go to one more!” We were on our way to Coyote’s Run. Enter the pothole from stage right. Okay – we didn’t read the directions the winery supplied. Okay, it was an unpaved road. Okay, there was a giant yellow sign that said “use at own risk” or some such nonsense. I heard GTR say “babe – hold on!” and a minute later we were in what the tow truck guy subsequently called a “lake”. Two hours later we were significantly lighter in our wallets, relatively clean after having been put through the car wash – twice – and heading back to the hotel. We were running late for dinner. We did not, in fact, have all the time in the world.
GTR had booked us for the Winemaker’s Dinner at the Oban Inn: Konzelmann Estate Winery at Restaurant Tony deLuca. We arrived (fashionably) late, and were seated next to Bruno Reis, the Director of Sales and Marketing for Konzelmann and our host for the evening. He is a character; with a thick German accent and child-like energy. He is deeply passionate about wine and food and aside from his tendency to grab GTR’s arm whenever making a point, he was a joy to dine with. His European charm (or the vast quantities of wine) even made me smile when he – repeatedly – winked at me from across the table throughout dinner.
The menu: My comments are in italics
A Lime Carbonated Injected Kusshi Oyster on Sea Salt, paired with a Sparkling Riesling
Perfect pairing. A beautiful, refreshing way to start a meal. In the way an intermezzo cleans the palette, the oyster prepped our palette for what was coming next.
Silky Potato Sip ‘a la Ratte’ with a White Truffle Foam, paired with Pinot Blanc
Yum. The soup (a sip of, served in an espresso cup) was gorgeous. Smooth, rich, and heavy on the tongue. It made me smile. I would have wondered what wine could complement the subtle complexities of potato and white truffle – the Pinot Blanc was perfect.
Terrine of Elk, Pistachios, Moutarde Violette and Baguette, paired with Pinot Noir
The elk was from a small, free range, all organic farm in Ontario and was rich and gamy, but not heavy or oily. The French moutard and mini gherkins balanced the flavors on the plate and were all complemented well by a beautiful, oaky Pinot Noir. The room decided they would like the same wine with less oak, but I liked it just the way it was. I was the silent minority – sorry Bruno.
Passion Fruit and Melon Sorbet – to cleanse the palette, don’t you know.
Berkshire Pork Belly, Lentils, Turnips, Sauce Foyot, paired with Zweighelt
Oh My God. GTR and I are still dreaming of this plate and will be for many years I’m sure. The pork belly had been braised for hours and while fatty, it was delicate and soft and so comforting. The richness of the pork matched perfectly – is there better than perfect? – with the lentils and the sauce was to die for. Zweighelt – it seems to be everywhere right now. It is a cold climate red varietal that is a crossing of Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent. While it matched well with the food, it was not my favorite wine, it was a bit young and aggressive for my palette.
Cumbrae Farms Dry Aged Beef Ribeye, Butternut Squash and Sweet Onions, paired with Merlot
Perfect. I love steak and this was no exception. Wow. It was an incredible cut that Tony deLuca’s kitchen aged on the premises. It was rich and surprisingly gamy, but super lean. The Merlot was beautiful. Mellow, sweet, rich – it did everything for me that a Merlot never does. It impressed.
A Tasting of deLuca’s Cheesemarket Cheeses with Konzelmann Icewine
If you are in the Niagara area, go to deLuca’s Cheesemarket. I missed the chance – but you can bet I’ll be there at my earliest opportunity. His selection and quality of cheeses are incredible. The cheese plate matched beautifully with the Icewine and made me realize that if paired correctly, Icewine was something I could enjoy. Occasionally. (GTR left his Icewine for me…he couldn’t be convinced.)
Honey Scented Pain d’Epice, Cranberry Relish and Vanilla Snow with coffee
I’m a girl, and sister to The Domestic Goddess, therefore I love dessert. This was the least impressive plate of the evening. The ‘cake’ was dry and lacked flavor. The snow (sorbet) was good, but uninspired. To be honest, after such a great meal, I would have been happy to skip this course all together. I am still disappointed looking back and wonder what I would have done instead. Maybe my next guest posting topic for The Domestic Goddess is at hand?
After a cold night huggle (standing cuddle) on the front stoop of the Oban Inn and a British Taxi ride back to the White Oaks we fell asleep quickly with tummies FULL of food; trying not to think about going home the next day. But no matter how much we will it, time cannot stand still. Morning coffee and packing up our things came along. Before we knew it (12 is too early to be kicked out of your hotel room!) we were in the car – again – and looking for a bite before coming home. Beware: outside the tourist strip of Niagara-On-The-Lake people look at you cock-eyed if you want breakfast after 11am…We ended up at the Pillar and Post Inn for their Sunday Buffet. It was a bit of a silly move as we were both still full from two days of gluttony, but we did our best. The food was good, but I fear it was wasted on us. We should have had a coffee and a fruit plate and left well enough alone. We will try to know better next time.
After a stop at Konzelmann Estate Winery to pick up some of our favorites from the night before, we were back on the road and headed home. Sweet home. I spent the evening on my sofa watching Alias – I assume GTR’s evening was as low-key. 24-hours of personal time and digestion was definitely in order.
Even if Icewine isn’t exactly your thing – I recommend the Festival and Niagara-On-The-Lake. I’d happily go back and try it all and more again. The town is beautiful and the people are great. The food was incredible and the Jacuzzi bath…well I’d go back just for that.
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