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22.february: taste everything awards

When I was little I detested mustard. Wait. Allow me to qualify that: I detested mustard that wasn't a bright, sunshiny paste and didn't come out of a dazzlingly yellow squeeze bottle labeled “French’s”. On several occasions my mom would put out various forms of Dijon mustard with things like ham or grilled chicken. I would turn my nose up at it and immediately reach for the golden stuff. By the time I was in university I had even gone so far as to completely shun yet another popular condiment - ketchup - and replace it with mustard -- yes, the yellow stuff – for my French fries (hey, I was young!).

One day a few years ago I was having dinner at my parents place and my younger sister showed up with a jar of Dijon she had gotten that afternoon at the St. Lawrence Market (the oldest Farmer’s Market in North America, located in Toronto, Ontario). We were having these gorgeous grilled sausages for dinner and she raved to anyone who would listen about how well this mustard would go with them. I supposed I had to try it out and plopped a wee dollop on the edge of my plate – being very careful not to allow it to touch anything else, lest I hate it. I cut off a small piece of sausage, dipped it in a miniscule drop of the brown-flecked paste and plunked it in my mouth…hoping for the best but expecting the worst.

It was absolutely delightful. Full of a heat and a spice and a tang that I had simply not expected. It was sweet and savory and it ran up the back of my throat into my nose with a slight tickle that was both invigorating and satisfying as I swallowed. I think I actually closed my eyes to better experience this new and fantastic flavour. When I finally registered that my entire family was staring at me around the dinner table I put down my fork and asked someone to please pass the mustard. I needed more – where had it been all my life?!?

That’s where it began – this shameless passion for a condiment, hitherto undiscovered. And little did I know where it would take me at the time. I had to see this stall where my sister had purchased the mustard – I had to go to the St. Lawrence Market myself and see the legendary stacks of bottles, the supposed myriad of flavours of mustard that THE MUSTARD MAKER was selling. Not long after, my boyfriend and I were standing in front of Anton Kozlik’s mustard stand, looking at spicy, sweet and savory mustards. From XXX Hot to Raspberry to Orange & Honey to Iced & Wined and everywhere in between.

We weren't sure where to start, to be honest, but the sales people were eager to help us by allowing us to taste-test any of the mustards with little pretzels, and they were even grilling up some lamb tenders that had been marinated in a few of the different mustards. This was salesmanship at its best if you ask me. One taste and these mustards were going home with you. We bought three jars that day: Amazing Maple, Hot Russian and Bordeaux. Of course, it didn't take long before the jars were all on their last legs in the fridge and we had to return for refills again and again. I use it for everything: dips, marinades, sauces, salad dressings (my favourite), sandwiches and even for just dipping barbequed sausages into.

My Maple Mustard-Peppercorn Vinaigrette
1 1/2 teaspoons Anton Kozlik's Mustard*
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons pink peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
1/2 cup high quality extra-virgin olive oil
Whisk together all ingredients except for the oil. Slowly stream in oil while continuing to whisk ingredients to emulsify.

* Just about any flavour works for this recipe; my personal favourites for it are: Russian, Bordeaux, Orange & Honey, Raspberry, Sweet & Smokey, and of course, Amazing Maple.

On our most recent trip to the market (which was made SPECIFICALLY to replenish our mustard stock), S. perused the flavours and carefully selected our jars. He tasted and sampled, picked up one, picked up another, put down the first one and thought some more. Then he tasted some more, picked up the first one again and thought some more (and so on and so on and so on). What was I doing during all of this careful selection process…? Making friends with the Mustard Maker himself – or rather the man Anton Kozlik chose to pass his secrets onto – Mr. Jeremy Kessler. Its funny how easily two foodies can get along and delve into an involved conversation, even though they might have been complete strangers five minutes before.

Not because Jeremy was a super nice guy, not because Anton Kozlik's mustard changed my mind forever about Dijon, and not because they give away loads of free samples at their St. Lawrence flagship store…not for any of these reasons do I chose to bestow my Taste Everything Award of ‘World’s Best Mustard to Eat or Cook With' upon this mustard. I chose to give it to them because of how amazing their product is and how this small Canadian business has taken the mustard world by storm.

 


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